Guest Post by Phil Ingram
When I mentioned to Tyler that I would like to recreate the Hollywood glamour look along the lines of George Hurrell of the 1930's and 1940's but using today's technologies, Tyler's response was "I love this style and have been wanting to shoot something in this genre for ages." Very few models are aware of this style let alone wanting to recreate it. We were on the same wavelength, same goal but with a different set of experiences to make it work - Tyler with her modelling, makeup, and burlesque training under lights, and me with my experience in portraiture, off-camera lighting and post-processing.
Unlike most portraiture photography, Hollywood glamour was typified with harsh lighting and this is achieved with studio strobes using bare light, snoots and gridded beauty dish.
The main light is located high to camera right or left to create strong sharp shadows with the nose giving a Paramount, Loop or Rembrandt lighting, also shadowing the long eyelashes, and under the chin. Diagonally opposite the main light and behind the model is another harsh light to act as the separation or rim light.
The harsh lighting meant the makeup needed to be a matte or non-reflective finish and maybe with a flat powder. Skin tones needed to match both the face and body, and as Tyler has very pale skin this wasn't a problem. Tyler ensured the foundation and base on her face was natural in order to match her shoulders and body.
Although the final images were to be black and white the lips were to be ruby red. Eye shadow was not to be too dark, say a light to medium grey so the eyes don't come up dark. Eyelash extensions are essential to make long eyelashes.
All set for the shoot, except for one thing. With flash photography one can only estimate where the shadows will fall across the face and body. It would be better for both model and photographer could see the resulting images as they were taken. To achieve this I used a CamRanger wireless Camera Control device to tether my camera to my laptop, and with the CamRanger software the images were downloaded and displayed on the screen. The laptop was also connected to a data projector to display the image onto a screen. With this setup we were able to modify the lighting and poses accordingly.
The results? Well, VOLO Magazine liked the finished images enough to publish the set in the 50th Jubilee Issue.